A fence is not a small purchase, and the company you pick matters as much as the material you choose. A good crew sets posts that stay put through Michigan winters and stands behind the work. A weak one leaves you with leaning panels and a sagging gate by spring. Here is how to tell the difference before you sign anything.
In Michigan, residential work over 600 dollars in labor and materials is supposed to be done by a licensed contractor, either a residential builder or a maintenance and alteration contractor. Fence work falls under that. Ask any company you are considering for their license number, then look it up yourself on the state LARA license search. It takes two minutes and tells you whether the license is active and whether there are complaints on file. If a company cannot give you a number, that is your answer.
Insurance matters just as much. You want a company that carries both liability coverage and workers compensation. If someone gets hurt on your property, or a crew damages your neighbor's yard, you do not want that landing on you. Ask for proof, not just a yes.
Southeast Michigan has its own quirks. Clay soil, freeze and thaw cycles, and frost that pushes anything set too shallow right out of the ground. Posts here need to go below the frost line so winter heaving does not lift them over time. A company that works in Ann Arbor and the surrounding towns every week knows this in their bones. One driving in from three counties over may not. Ask how long they have worked in the area and where you can go see fences they have built nearby.
Before anyone digs in Michigan, the job has to be called in to MISS DIG 811. It is free, it is the law, and it gets your underground gas, electric, and water lines marked so nobody hits them. A real fence company handles this for you as a matter of course. The same goes for permits. Many Southeast Michigan cities, including Ann Arbor, require one before you build. Ask whether they pull it or leave it to you. The right answer is that they take care of it.
A number scribbled on the back of a card is not an estimate. You want it in writing, broken down by materials, labor, gates, and any extras, so you can compare companies fairly. While you are at it, look at the payment terms. A deposit of roughly a quarter to a third up front is normal. Anyone asking for the full amount before they start, or cash only with no contract, is waving a red flag. Get the scope, the timeline, and the price on paper.
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Reviews on Google tell you a lot, but recent ones tell you more. Look for a steady pattern over the last year or two, not a few old five star ratings. Ask for references you can actually call, and drive by a finished fence if you can. Photos are nice. Seeing how a gate still swings after a year in the ground is better.
There are two warranties worth asking about. The manufacturer covers the material itself, like a vinyl panel that fails. The company covers the workmanship, meaning the posts, the gates, and the install. A solid installer stands behind their labor for a year or more. Get the length in writing and know who to call if a post shifts.
One last thing that is easy to skip. A permit confirms your fence meets city rules. It does not confirm where your property line sits. Know your real boundary before the crew arrives, not where you think it runs or where the old fence sat. A few inches over the line can turn into a neighbor dispute that costs far more than getting it right the first time. A good company will talk this through with you up front.
The right fence company is licensed, insured, local, and clear about what you are getting and what it costs. Ask the questions, check the license, and read the estimate before you commit. A company worth hiring will be glad you did.
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